http://www.energyvanguard.com/blog-building-science-HERS-BPI/bid/38676/Don-t-Let-Your-Attic-Suck-Power-Attic-Ventilators-Are-a-Bad-Idea

· As a customer of either PEPCO or BG&E, you are eligible to obtain rebates
of 50% off efficiency upgrades of up to $2000. This is new for 2012.

· In addition to the 50% rebates from your utility, the county had funding
for an additional 20% of up to $1000 for efficiency upgrades
(www.mcenergyfunding.com ). As of February 2012, it had been closed to new
applicants. However, the County Program Manager notified us yesterday that
unused funding is now available until it’s depleted again(probably within the
next few weeks.)

This is a total of 70% cash rebates for efficiency upgrades such as added
insulation and air sealing to make your home more comfortable. Our company, Home
Energy Rescue is a participating and licensed home performance contractor with
Pepco and BGE. As a customer of either utility, you are eligible for a
comprehensive energy audit for $100 (typically costs $400). The audit covers air
leakage tests, insulation inspection, testing for carbon monoxide/gas leaks, and
thermal imaging of your home. It is also the first step to be eligible for the
70% rebate.

I have yet to meet a customer who didn’t think our comprehensive energy audit
was enjoyable and $100 well spent. The audit report gives you comprehensive
recommendations on cost-efficient improvements that will yield cash back, a
safer more comfortable home, and lower utility bills.

Propane Vs. Electricity – Energy Content Comparison

Propane gas is measured and distributed in gallons, pounds and cubic feet and while the measurable units of propane sold adhere to volumes, the usable energy (or energy content) is measured in BTU’s. Electricity is measured in kilowatts and is “delivered” in kilowatts. Propane appliances and electric appliances are both labeled in “per hour” efficiency ratings for energy consumption measurement. Propane appliances are listed as BTU/hr rating while electric appliances are listed as kWh (Kilowatt Hours). To understand the true difference between propane and electricity, we must compare propane and electricity in terms of their energy content.

• 1 Gallon of Propane = 27 kWh (Kilowatt Hours) of electricity – This means that one gallon of propane contains the same amount of usable energy as 27 Kilowatt Hours. Or we can say that 27 kWh equals approximately 91,500 BTU.
• A 100 watt light bulb left on for a full day (24 hours) will consume 2.4 kWh. If propane were to power the same light bulb (hypothetically- remember, we’re comparing energy content) for 24 hours, it would use .09 gallons of propane.

Fuel costs vary widely by region and sector (industrial, residential, etc) for both propane and electricity. Historically, propane has been considered a better value and more cost effective when compared to electricity.

Propane Vs. Electricity Cost Comparison

Comparing electricity to propane has long been an interest to energy users and prospective consumers of propane and electricity. So how does one go about comparing the cost of propane to electricity? It all starts with understanding the cost per unit of each fuel and comparing them directly. But for simplification and to avoid an over-analysis of propane and electricity cost comparison, we’ll cover it here in an unbiased an non-technical manner. The breakdown of propane and electricity “units” are gallons and kilowatts as described above. However, the very best way to understand the cost comparison is to understand how much it costs to power an appliance at the same level for the same amount of time. For example, a 100,000 BTU/hr central furnace running at 100% capacity for 10 hours will cost how much using propane as compared to using electricity in a comparable furnace? However, the numerous types of factors (insulation, AFUE and other efficiency ratings) involved with calculating the true comparison of appliances can make it difficult. Therefore, let’s break it down as simply as we can using the given values of propane and electricity:

If one gallon of propane is equal to 27 kWh of electricity, then we can compare the costs of these fuels directly by looking at the price per unit (propane gallons or kilowatt hours) and finding the price difference. This can easily be done by looking at your electric bill and multiplying the price per kWh by 27. The resulting number will be a dollar figure that will be either greater than or less than the price of a gallon of propane. For example, if you are paying 12¢ per kWh, the electrical cost comparison figure to a gallon of propane will be $3.24 (.12 x 27 = 3.24). Electricity is cheaper than propane if propane is selling for $3.24 per gallon and propane is cheaper than electricity if it is selling for less than $3.24 per gallon.

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That’s great, except it overlooks a lot of important considerations.

For instance, did you know that even 1 dime-sized gap diminishes fiberglass insulation’s effectiveness by 5%?  That’s because the air flows around the insulation, rendering it less useful.

Now, how many dime sized gaps do you think are in an average house insulated with fiberglass?  Many homes have penetrations larger than bricks!  But they’re hidden behind walls or ceilings so you don’t even see them.

Standard construction practices are naturally imperfect until specific remedies are taken.  That’s why the US Department of Energy estimates 40% savings when you seal your home effectively.

The fact is many homes have large R-values of insulation but even larger leaks.  Often people try to do the right thing and invest in their insulation by improving their R-values.   However, they add more insulation but don’t seal the air leaks.  That means they spent money on adding insulation but didn’t get the benefits they wanted.  Yikes!

And that’s the point.  High R-values are great, but they’re not enough.  In fact, you can save more even by using less R-value, but only if you seal off the air.  The standard R-values dictated by local codes are based on standard forms of insulation like fiberglass or cellulose, which CANNOT seal out air no matter how much you use.

Your insulation doesn’t have to be hit and miss. There’s a new way to manage this whole building system for you. And you can be sure that it will help you get more out of your energy than you’re getting right now. Wouldn’t it be nice to get more from your heating and cooling each month while spending less money?

Find out how to do just that. Call or email us and we will tell you how you can get more out of what you’re spending on energy.

Common terms are “soft white 60,” “warm light 60,” and “60 watt replacement.” Sometimes a diagram will show two images with an equal sign, as in the packaging image to the right.

To save energy, find the bulbs with the light output you need, and then choose the one with the lowest wattage. You can also look for an ENERGY STAR qualified bulb that is labeled as equivalent to the incandescent bulb you are replacing.

The color of light may also affect how bright a light appears, even if the lumens are the same. Since most people are used to the soft yellowish glow from incandescent light bulbs, ENERGY STAR qualified bulbs that produce light closer to the color of daylight (color temperatures above 3000K) may appear brighter because the color of the light is less yellow. Learn more about color temperature.

Do I have enough Insulation?

No matter what kind of insulation you currently have in your attic, one quick way to determine if you need more is to look across the span of your attic. If your insulation is just level with or below your loor joists (i.e., you can easily see your joists), you should add more. If you cannot see any of the loor joists because the insulation is well above them, you probably have enough and adding more may not be cost-effective. It is important that the insulation be evenly distributed with no low spots; sometimes there is enough insulation in the middle of the attic and very little along the eaves.